This post comes to you from Cusco's Aeropuerto Internacional Alejandro Velasco Astete. The skies are surprisingly quiet for an airport as only one airlines appears to have the technology and skills to land and take off in the drizzle and cloud cover that is hanging over this ancient city. Every time we hear an airplane there is a pause as everyone looks longingly out the window in hopes that it is an incoming StarPeru or Taca flight, nope, just another LAN flight. The food options are becoming scarce as the airport's eateries are scrambling to accommodate for the crowds of frustrated travelers. StarPeru has given us reason to think we may have a flight today. The situation is clearly out of their control, we are appealing to the only One who is in control. "Your will, not mine Lord". Who would have thought that out of all the forms of transportation we have used on this adventure, the flight would give us the most trouble.
After our peaceful visit at Lake Titicaca, we headed north hoping to make it to the base of Machu Picchu in one day. We traveled by taxi, combi, mototaxi, bus - repeat. We made it to Ollantaytambo, a lovely cobblestoned town where we found accommodations for the night. We caught the first train out of Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, situated near the base of Machu Picchu. I had heard that the train ride offered amazing views, but that is an understatement. As we meandered through the valley next to a rapid river, we were awed by the steep peaks that were revealed as the morning clouds lifted. We began to notice thicker and more jungle-like vegetation as our train approached the destination. While taking in the sights, Megan and I had a delightful conversation with the two gentlemen across from us. Taka is a Japanese geologist living in Houston and traveling Peru and Bolivia for a month. Paolo, an Italian whom we had initially understood to be a professional clown, is taking a few weeks vacation from pursuing his degree in education. We were disappointed to learn that he just has a desk job, but he does have the personality of a clown.
Upon arrival in Aguas Calientes we dropped off our bags at the hotel and began hiking up Machu Picchu. Despite being at a lower elevation, we were challenged by the climb. Frequent rest stops provided opportunity to soak in the breathtaking scenery. Once at the top we enjoyed exploring the maze-like ruins and taking picture at the classic "I was at Machu Picchu" photo spot. I'm not sure what I expected, but I was blown away by how large and intricate the ruins were. The clouds passing between surrounding mountains made for a majestic backdrop. We opted to avoid the slippery steps down afterwards by taking the bus as the rain set in again. While waiting we noticed a bus that had just arrived was drawing a crowd. Soon we heard rumors that Jim Carrey was onboard. Before boarding our own bus we caught a glimpse of the distinctive Jim Carrey smile before he disappeared into the mob of body guards escorting him through the gawking crowd and into Machu Picchu. I would not want to be a celebrity!
Early the next morning we boarded a train back to Ollantaytambo. On our car was a large group of Japanese tourists and a few other backpackers. Last to board was a woman who looked to be in pain and two men accompanying her. All other Peruvian locals were in the other cars except for these three. Megan and I dozed for the first part of the ride, after we were served a snack and hot drinks I noticed that there was a small commotion around the Peruvian woman 3 rows up whose pain had clearly escalated. The conductor was calmly asking passengers nearby to move back a few rows while one of the men traveling with the woman put on surgical gloves. "I think she's about to have a baby!" I told Megan in shock. While we were still trying to grasp the situation before us and determine whether or not our assistance was needed, the woman was moved to the floor, a few loud groans, and then a baby's cry! Some of the passengers gasped, some began to clap, most were starring with jaws dropped thinking, "did that really just happen?!" We weren't given very long to be shocked before we had to start reacting to the amniotic fluid that was running down the aisle of the train. The conductor brought out handfuls of paper towels and toilet paper as passengers scurried to move bags off the floor and stop the fluid. After the situation was more under control, the proud papa paraded his newborn down the aisle while the Japanese tourists oo-ed and ahh-ed and, of course, snapped pictures of the precious baby. Yes, we got a picture as well. As we rolled into the station, the parents sat proudly and calmly admiring their little one latched on to mom's breast. An unforgettable train ride, to say the least.
From Ollantaytambo, we caught a combi to Cusco. The fields and pueblos that had been glowing in the setting sun on our ride in were coated in a light blanket of snow and it continued to fall until we began our descent into Cusco. Despite the rain in the valley, we tried to enjoy Cusco as best we knew how. Our hostel was conveniently located near the city center, making all of our destinations walkable. At the Cathedral, we did the audio tour which helped us understand much of the artwork and symbolism. I had two primary reactions to the decor of the Cathedral: first, appreciation for the attempts at cultural integration when Christianity was first brought to Peru. The artwork was full of slightly humorous cultural nuances, for example: llamas instead of camels, local dress, a Guinea pig on the table of the last supper. My second reaction was one of sorrow for the extensive presence of seemingly polytheistic influences still strong in the Peruvian Catholic church which draw away from the power and relationship with our Lord.
From the time I began compiling this post to now, much has happened. We boarded our plane last night, only to find out that it was cancelled. After hours of waiting we were finally given our checked bags and told to return in the morning for a 6am flight. There were no more buses to Lima by that time. Thankfully our hostel had two open beds. At dinner we had a delightful conversation with our waitress who inquired about our faith after seeing us pray before our meal. This morning we were the first people at the Star Peru desk at 4:40. By 5:30 our fellow passengers from the night before were lined up waiting for our promised 6am flight. It wasn't until about 5:45 that we were checked in and told we would depart as soon as the weather cleared up a bit. Security was late in opening and by the time we were through, they were giving a final boarding call for our flight. "Really? Are we actually leaving? No more false alarms?" The plane departed at 6:45, and there was cheering as soon as we lifted off the ground. Not long into the flight, one of our flight attendants noticed us reading the Bible and shared with us bits of his story and interactions with church and scripture. After he collected the trash, he stayed and chatted with us for the remainder of the flight. We weren't sure how much of his motivation was from talking to two American girls and how much was from talking to believers, but either way he was excited to give me his contact info to be passed on to the missionaries here in Lima. We praise the Lord for our safe arrival into Lima and for our warm welcome into the home of John Mark and Tara Davidson. God is present and active in the hiccups of life, I thank Him for reminders like this to trust in Him.
