Monday, March 18, 2013

the train to Bayeux


[composed on March 13, on a train]


This is our third train today and everything is white outside. Initially our plan was to go to the small medieval town of Bayeux where a museum houses one of the world's oldest tapestries, then we were to meet up with a tour that would take us to the beaches of Normandy and the American Cemetery. The day before departure, the tour company wrote to say that they would have to cancel the tour due to weather. Our eager team of adventurers decided to continue with the plan and go see the tapestry, enjoy a snow-covered medieval town and perhaps rent a car to go see the beaches on our own. Eager, but perhaps a little too idealistic. The canceled tour afforded us a few extra hours of much needed sleep. In the hotel lobby we watched news reports of people digging out buried cars from mounds of snow in the Normandy area. We boarded a train at 10:10, ignorant of any poor travel conditions. "Trains aren't too affected by weather, right?" I pondered out loud. Everyone seemed to agree, so on we went. We marveled at the snow floating around inside the Saint Lazare train station in Paris; we smiled as the snow covered city faded into snow-blanketed countryside, and excitement grew with each stop the train made in quaint towns along the way. We arrived in Caen to find that there were no trains going to Bayeux. In fact, all trains were canceled except for the train we just de-boarded which was scheduled to return to Paris in 40 minutes. We considered our options for about 30 seconds and then unanimously agreed to grab a bite to eat then return on the same train. We stepped outside the crowded station to see what eateries Caen had to offer. There was a closed convenience store, a restaurant, and a Kebab place. The decision was easy, we needed something fast so Kebab it was. The six of us made our way across indiscernible streets through at least 4 inches of snow and stood inside the fast food joint, waiting patiently for our turn to order. With 20 minutes until departure we ordered our food and prayed that the fast food would stay true to its name. Kebabs and drinks in hand, we crowded back into the station (throwing a few snowballs along the way and taking a token photo to commemorate our adventure) just in time to see on the monitor which platform the train was leaving from (as if we couldn't have guessed since it was the train we had arrived on). The stagnant crowd quickly moved into action and we made our way back onto the same train, same car and same seats which we had recently left. We were determined that these Kebabs would be the best ever and totally worth the trip, so we devoured them with optimism and plenty of laughs. Shelby entertained us with stories from the day before of the French shoe store that only sold right-footed shoes and her perceived recent onset of epilepsy. The mood was positive despite our failed attempt to travel to Bayeux and we began to make plans for how we would spend the rest of the day in Paris. And then we stopped in the small town of Mezidon. And there we stayed. And waited. After at least 30 minutes of sitting on the train, unsure of what announcements were being made in French, an announcement came on that stimulated sighs of frustration among the other travelers and people began to put on the coats and get off. We decided we should probably follow suit. Once inside the station (once again crowded), we learned from a kind fellow traveler who spoke English that our train had technical difficulties and could not take us to Paris. So we waited calmly with all the other anxious travelers, for further instruction. A roundish Frenchman looking official with his reflective vest came in to inform us calmly that we would soon board another train to return to Caen, that train would depart from Caen to Paris as scheduled at 17:03. Though it meant we would have little time to do anything once back in Paris, we were delighted to hear that we would be getting back to Paris. I was proud of our group of novice travelers for remaining calm and positive throughout the event. We chatted briefly with fellow travelers while we waited to board the new train. Once back in Caen, half our group was sent into the station for food and supplies (coke and chocolate) to get us through our journey. They returned with a bounty of water, nuts, sweets, drinks and reading materials to keep us supplied until our return. While at the station in Caen, men dressed in red rescue worker suits came through the train offering hot tea, coffee and water. The gesture was appreciated, but after seeing the news reports this morning and seeing the seriousness of the present weather conditions, it seems like making sure we have tea and coffee should be the least of their worries. 


So now here we sit. After about 4 hours on this train. It is hot. Eric has voiced concern regarding train temperatures and our up coming overnight train to Zurich, "What if they bake us in that couchette?" Some of our group seems to have lost their senses, but at least it is providing for lots of giggles. It's dark outside, but we can see that the ground and rooftops here have accumulated more snow since we left them this morning. We are nearing Paris. There's still time for exploration and dinner on this, our last night in Paris, maybe even more adventure than we bargain for...but I hope not, we've already had that today. 

Sleepy students taking advantage of our unplanned "day of rest"



independent travel


[Paris, France - March 9-11, 2013]

Kyle and I have the privilege of traveling with four HUF students during their independent travel. We planned to visit Paris, Normandy, Brussels, and Amsterdam. With bags packed, passports in hand and excited for new adventures we boarded our flight and the journey began. Paris greeted us with its chilly winter night charm as we navigated buses, the metro and a maze of underground tunnels. Our hotel was nothing to brag about, and the men standing outside arguing was not comforting, but it was good enough. Tired, thirsty and hungry for a snack we poured into the Asian convenience store across the street at about midnight. Once satisfied we were off to bed to rest up for the next day's explorations. 

Over breakfast each morning, with maps in hand, we plotted out what to do that day. The first day we began with a free walking tour led by Elliott, a cleaver red-head with a thick French accent. He showed us secret places of Paris and explained why French gardens have no grass and the story behind the shape of the Channel No. 5 bottle. We stopped for delicious crepes at a trendy organic restaurant and then set out for the Musee D'Orsay. The amount of works from many masters, particularly from among the impressionists, are almost overwhelming. It's unfair to try to appreciate all of the pieces in a brief two hour visit, but we appreciated what we could until they kicked us out - without even letting us buy postcards! It seems like the bookstore should be the last thing to close rather than the first, but no one asked us. 

That evening we rode the elevator up to the top of the Eiffel Tower for spectacular views just as the city lights were beginning to glow.
View from la Tour Eiffel

Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Our second day we climbed up to the Basilica of the Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart) and marveled at the wealth of symbolism and beauty the landmark holds. Kyle and I then went to buy our train tickets while the students made their way to discover the treasures of the Louvre. We met up at Notre Dame and ate lunch at a Latino American dive. Kyle's family have been friends with the restaurant's owner for many years. Unfortunately he was not there, but we savored the ethnic dishes and enjoyed a taste of familiarity. 

After our meal we walked back to the nearby Notre Dame to discover its treasures. This year is the Cathedral's 850th birthday. The gothic style exhibited with superb stained glass and terrific gargoyles never ceases to amaze. We attempted to make a brief visit to the Musee Rodin, but despite what the website says, it is closed on Mondays. So, naturally, we sat down for a coffee at a nearby cafe to plot out our next move. 

Monday had been deemed "date night" by my thoughtful husband so the students went their separate ways and we discussed options for the evening. We had seen several river boats with restaurants on them so we decided to try that. We found the port and boarded the dinner cruise at 7:45 pm. The boat was nice, but almost had a floating disco feel to it complete with dance floor and flashing lights. We sat in small arm chairs side by side facing outwards towards a port side glass wall. The window extended up above our heads for maximum viewing. We embarked and enjoyed views of Notre Dame, the river islands, Musee D'Orsay, the Louvre and other fabulous works of French architecture as we ate our Salmon and basmati rice. The boat approached the Eiffle Tower just at the top of the hour so that we had a perfect view of the sparkling tower. At that exact moment, the constant drizzle which had been coming down all evening, turned to snow! Thick, delicate flakes seemed to be streaming down from the sparkling tower overhead. It was one of those magical moments we will not forget. Kyle and I just sat and marveled. We didn't even take any photos, we just enjoyed the moment, and it was perfect. The boat turned away to head back to our starting point and the snow tapered off and turned back into a wintery rain mix. It was as though that moment was just for us. "Thank you, God for choosing to bless us with a magical moment to share!"

Our two days in Paris were lovely and we continue to be optimistic about what adventures lie ahead despite ominous weather reports.