the train to Bayeux

[composed on March 13, on a train]


This is our third train today and everything is white outside. Initially our plan was to go to the small medieval town of Bayeux where a museum houses one of the world's oldest tapestries, then we were to meet up with a tour that would take us to the beaches of Normandy and the American Cemetery. The day before departure, the tour company wrote to say that they would have to cancel the tour due to weather. Our eager team of adventurers decided to continue with the plan and go see the tapestry, enjoy a snow-covered medieval town and perhaps rent a car to go see the beaches on our own. Eager, but perhaps a little too idealistic. The canceled tour afforded us a few extra hours of much needed sleep. In the hotel lobby we watched news reports of people digging out buried cars from mounds of snow in the Normandy area. We boarded a train at 10:10, ignorant of any poor travel conditions. "Trains aren't too affected by weather, right?" I pondered out loud. Everyone seemed to agree, so on we went. We marveled at the snow floating around inside the Saint Lazare train station in Paris; we smiled as the snow covered city faded into snow-blanketed countryside, and excitement grew with each stop the train made in quaint towns along the way. We arrived in Caen to find that there were no trains going to Bayeux. In fact, all trains were canceled except for the train we just de-boarded which was scheduled to return to Paris in 40 minutes. We considered our options for about 30 seconds and then unanimously agreed to grab a bite to eat then return on the same train. We stepped outside the crowded station to see what eateries Caen had to offer. There was a closed convenience store, a restaurant, and a Kebab place. The decision was easy, we needed something fast so Kebab it was. The six of us made our way across indiscernible streets through at least 4 inches of snow and stood inside the fast food joint, waiting patiently for our turn to order. With 20 minutes until departure we ordered our food and prayed that the fast food would stay true to its name. Kebabs and drinks in hand, we crowded back into the station (throwing a few snowballs along the way and taking a token photo to commemorate our adventure) just in time to see on the monitor which platform the train was leaving from (as if we couldn't have guessed since it was the train we had arrived on). The stagnant crowd quickly moved into action and we made our way back onto the same train, same car and same seats which we had recently left. We were determined that these Kebabs would be the best ever and totally worth the trip, so we devoured them with optimism and plenty of laughs. Shelby entertained us with stories from the day before of the French shoe store that only sold right-footed shoes and her perceived recent onset of epilepsy. The mood was positive despite our failed attempt to travel to Bayeux and we began to make plans for how we would spend the rest of the day in Paris. And then we stopped in the small town of Mezidon. And there we stayed. And waited. After at least 30 minutes of sitting on the train, unsure of what announcements were being made in French, an announcement came on that stimulated sighs of frustration among the other travelers and people began to put on the coats and get off. We decided we should probably follow suit. Once inside the station (once again crowded), we learned from a kind fellow traveler who spoke English that our train had technical difficulties and could not take us to Paris. So we waited calmly with all the other anxious travelers, for further instruction. A roundish Frenchman looking official with his reflective vest came in to inform us calmly that we would soon board another train to return to Caen, that train would depart from Caen to Paris as scheduled at 17:03. Though it meant we would have little time to do anything once back in Paris, we were delighted to hear that we would be getting back to Paris. I was proud of our group of novice travelers for remaining calm and positive throughout the event. We chatted briefly with fellow travelers while we waited to board the new train. Once back in Caen, half our group was sent into the station for food and supplies (coke and chocolate) to get us through our journey. They returned with a bounty of water, nuts, sweets, drinks and reading materials to keep us supplied until our return. While at the station in Caen, men dressed in red rescue worker suits came through the train offering hot tea, coffee and water. The gesture was appreciated, but after seeing the news reports this morning and seeing the seriousness of the present weather conditions, it seems like making sure we have tea and coffee should be the least of their worries. 

So now here we sit. After about 4 hours on this train. It is hot. Eric has voiced concern regarding train temperatures and our up coming overnight train to Zurich, "What if they bake us in that couchette?" Some of our group seems to have lost their senses, but at least it is providing for lots of giggles. It's dark outside, but we can see that the ground and rooftops here have accumulated more snow since we left them this morning. We are nearing Paris. There's still time for exploration and dinner on this, our last night in Paris, maybe even more adventure than we bargain for...but I hope not, we've already had that today. 

Sleepy students taking advantage of our unplanned "day of rest"